The primary function of ammonia in hair colour is to raise the pH of the hair sufficiently so as to open the cuticle and allow colour to penetrate into the cortex of the hair. The higher the percentage of ammonia, the higher the pH rises and the more the cuticles open. The secondary function of ammonia is that when it is mixed with peroxide, it neutralises the existing colour pigments to a greater degree. Unfortunately though there are three main side effects on the hair:
- At the same time that colour is swelling the cuticle to easily enter the cortex, there is a significant protein and moisture loss; the vital necessities for healthy hair! This is how the hair is damaged during an ammonia colour.
- The pH of the hair is raised to such an extent by ammonia that it is physically impossible to return hair back to its ideal pH after colouring meaning that the cuticle remains open, resulting in a continuous loss of protein and moisture from within. While the cuticle remains open there is also an increased risk of colour fade.
- As a result of the cuticle remaining open after colouring, the percentage of pigment in the colour needs to be as high as possible to try and keep the colour for longer.
The good news is that many salon professional companies are now removing ammonia from their hair colours. Unfortunately though in a phenomenon known as ‘Greenwashing’, many companies have merely removed ammonia and replaced it in equal quantities with an ingredient called ethanolamine however the above damaging side effects still apply. T
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